Prep the base: Finely dice onion, carrots, and celery. Mince garlic. If using pancetta, cut it into small pieces.

Sauté the aromatics: Heat olive oil (and a knob of butter if using) in a heavy pot over medium heat. Cook pancetta until lightly crispy. Add onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt. Cook 8–10 minutes until soft and sweet, then stir in garlic for 30 seconds.

Brown the meat: Add beef. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until well-browned, breaking it up but leaving some texture. Take your time—color equals flavor.

Tomato paste toast: Stir in tomato paste and cook 2–3 minutes until darkened and fragrant.

Deglaze with wine: Pour in red wine and scrape up browned bits. Simmer until mostly reduced.

Build the sauce: Add crushed tomatoes, a splash of beef stock, bay leaves, thyme/rosemary, and the Parmesan rind if you have it. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Low and slow: Partially cover and simmer on low for 2–3 hours, stirring occasionally. Add more stock as needed to keep it saucy but thick. The sauce should become glossy and rich.

Finish and balance: Remove bay leaves and herb stems. Stir in a splash of milk or cream to soften acidity. Adjust salt, pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flakes if you like heat.

Cook the pasta: Boil pasta in well-salted water until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water.

Marry sauce and pasta: Add pasta to the ragu with a ladle of pasta water. Toss over low heat until the sauce clings and coats. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and grated Parmesan.

Serve: Top with chopped parsley or basil and extra Parmesan. Eat immediately.